It was a long day going between Santa Elena and Puerto Viejo. It gets warmer and drier very quickly as you come down from Monte Verde, with corresponding changes in vegetation. The population density also increases, but it still feels very rural until you are 10km outside San Jose in a massive traffic jam. We might have spent an hour there if we weren't in the bus lane. We changed buses in San Jose and in our trip to the coast, we once again passed through rain forest. One side of the road was bordered by cliffs, and we frequently passed waterfalls, some were gushers, and some were like lace curtains. We passed through some flat land and then arrived in Limon, a medium-sized town on the coast. The last hour or so along the coast got us very excited about the time we'd be spending there. The beaches stretched on and on, shaded by palm trees, and with very few people. Our hotel, about 3km south of Puerto Viejo, is in the middle of the jungle, just barely visible from the muddy track that leads off the main road. We had a nice simple dinner at outdoor café, spent some time on the moonlit beach, and fell asleep to the sounds of cicadas, monkey, and frogs. And woke up to the sound of howler monkeys! We never saw them, but heard them frequently—the sound of someone with a bad cough gasping for breath.
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